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Driveshaft upgrade
 
 PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 10:31 pm 

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Ok, I think I'm going to upgrade my rear driveshaft from a 1310 cv to 1350, but I'm debating going CV or not.

Right now, my driveshaft is running at 12* operating angle and is 23.5" long. (Drivetrain is 8*, the shaft is at 20*, so 12* operating according to the billavista driveshaft article)

I figure that I'll have to drop the pinion some to avoid the nasty vibes (no big deal there, uppers and lowers are adjustable) but I'm trying to figure out if being near the operating range of 20* for a 1350 joint will cause frequent destruction. The advantage to non-cv is the cost factor.

Or, I can go the safer route and have less cash in the pocket and go with a 1350 CV. I would probably go with High Angle Driveline 1350 CV and flange. I'm not sure how much this would cost, I'm kinda afraid to call because I'm guessing this is gonna run over $500. (or is there another way to get something similar?)

So, what do you guys think? Anybody been running 1350 non-cv type shaft at similar lenghts/angles with results?

Thanks.

(btw - the jeep is back together)


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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 11:22 pm 

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why not 1410-works at even higher angles. probly the same price. Same caps, bigger trunion.

I hate cv's.

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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:22 am 

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why mess around, 1410....

i went with tom woods because HAD was overpriced IMO

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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:01 am 

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Eric at Ann Arbot Drive Shaft will biule you whatever you want, and probably beat anybodies price. Might be work giving him a call. And I think he gives GLFWDA Discounts.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:02 am 

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I used Tom Woods a few years ago when I first got my atlas. It was fine but nothing I couldn't get locally built at Joint Clutch & Gear. With his weird spin on 1350 parts on his site (probably targeted at HAD), I really hadn't put much thought into using Tom for this.

1410 non-cv, eh? Is that what you've been running in your comp rig? It does make the most sense with it supporting higher angles and more power..


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:56 am 
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95geo wrote:
why mess around, 1410....

i went with tom woods because HAD was overpriced IMO


why not go with 1410

mine are all 1410 they are stronger and will support more angle

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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 1:33 pm 

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I did some searching this morning to come up with a parts list so I could try and ballpark a number.

here's the info I got for building a 1410, all spicer numbers:

axle yoke: 3-70-28X (d60, strap style)
slip yoke: 3-3-118KX (6.5" long, 1.5"-16 spline)
yoke shaft: 3-53-1031 (1.5"-16 spline by 4 7/16" long, 3x0.83 tube)
weld yoke: 3-28-97 (for 3x0.83 tube)
t-case yoke: 3-4-10951-1 (32 spline atlas/np205, strap stlye)

1350/1410 straps: 3-70-28X
1350/1410 u-bolts: 3-94-18X
1410 joint: 5-801X (neapco 2-0054)

Lots of useful spicer part numbers here (also lists neapco & newstar)here

Oh yeah, I tried calling HAD to get a price but got voicemail. Hopefully I'll hear from him this afternoon.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 1:41 pm 
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hey johny if i was you would just take that list of part numbers and goto clydes and make it your self. i bought HAD shafts for the jeep and got raped you can build the same shafts for about half the price with minimal tools. when redoing the shafts in the buggy it only took me a couple hours from start to finish and i had to modify a couple yokes to make the 2 piece front. i would be willing to bet my shaft is straight enough for a dd

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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:37 pm 

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what about prices on them parts you got them :popcorn:


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:56 pm 
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also check rock ford driveline there site is kinda tuff to get around but they have alot of parts

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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:48 pm 

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I've been running shortened TJ/XJ/ZJ front axles for quite a while now. In fact, the one that's under the jeep right now is on at least it's 2nd re-tube, and I pulled it out of the spare pile and don't know its full history. (it's the one I twisted apart at the badlands when my lower ripped out of the frame)

Jesse at HAD said it'd be about $500 for the yokes and a 1410 shaft, plus whatever shipping would be. Next step is to call up Clyde's and get prices.

I did some google searching this morning on part numbers, came up with about $425 in parts. Here's the prices from random sites to get a ballpark figure:

axle yoke: $80 (HAD, u-bolt style)
slip yoke: $110
yoke shaft: $50
weld yoke: $47
t-case yoke: $80 (HAD, u-bolt style)
1410 joint: $28 each (need 2) (DTS)

I'm pretty sure the HAD yokes include u-bolts in the price. If not, probably add another $20-25 to the price for two sets of 1350/1410 u-bolts.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:41 pm 
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most all HAD stuff includes hardware

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 PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:07 pm 

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i went to clydes and picked up all the parts needed to make two simple slipshafts cost me around 350$ that including 50$ in machining

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 PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 4:04 pm 
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Toy flanges and toy shafts are the way to go. 37 some odd degrees of misalignment.

That is if HAD makes flanges for your application. :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:02 pm 

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I went and picked up parts this afternoon from Clyde's. Here's the price breakdown for parts for my 1410 shaft:

slip yoke: 3-3-118KX $43.15
stub yoke: 3-40-1511 $52.83
weld yoke: 3-28-97 $21.24
u-joint: 5-801X $21.26 each

I also picked up 4' of 3" x 0.2" pipe/tube. It was a piece from some old trailer axle they had. I picked it up for $35.20. I only need 1' for a shaft, so I'll have a spare tube made when we turn down the inside to 3x0.083 to fit over the stub and weld yoke, and have some spare for later.

I need to get the d60 and np205/atlas yoke. He only had strap style for the d60 and the np205/atlas wasn't in stock, so I figured I would just order ones already mod'd.


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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:26 pm 

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:thumb:

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:33 pm 

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Bump since it took me a few minutes to find this again.

14-bolt 1410 yoke is AAM-26060884, hopefully Clyde's has it.


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