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Not hardkore yj build.
 
 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:10 pm 
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Webwheelerousmaximus

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chad jeep looks good


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:37 pm 

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im going with axlewrap on this one tim.


chad you remember the axle wrap i used to get on the yota with leafs..

Right about ........ NOW!

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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:29 pm 

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yeah it didnt really hop or anything, but the minute the back tires went from flat ground to climbing the hill it broke. Added traction, weight on the back, I am sure the pinion rotated sky high and kablooey.

I dont want to be justin or chevota, so I may have to link the rear sooner then anticipated to avoid continued broken rear driveshafts.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:59 pm 
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strangler is hoser's shrink

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UP_ROKTOY wrote:
I dont want to be justin or chevota, so I may have to add a traction bar like everyone else thats running leafs to avoid continued broken rear driveshafts.

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Currently fearing a Rubiconish pile of parts......


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:08 pm 
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Loves The Taco

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Traction bar :beer:

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Two bee ore knot tubey. That is the question.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:10 pm 

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Revolvers and Z-boxes. I just read that they rock. No wrap problems with that setup if you don't WOT it.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:54 pm 

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JohnnyJ wrote:
Revolvers and Z-boxes. I just read that they rock. No wrap problems with that setup if you don't WOT it.
That sucks, cuz I WOT'd it.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:55 pm 
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I GOT NO REAL LIFE

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So, what's with the 8.8 flange. It's the second one I've heard about breaking in the last month. Is that a common problem?

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90 YJ with a few things done to it.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:29 pm 
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Dirty DaVe

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bdsjeeper...didnt yours break at the badlands??

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UP_ROKTOY wrote:
AlumCJ wrote:
dave has the right idea.
roger that.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:30 pm 

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Not sure if its common or not, but I found a 1350 Yoke for the 8.8 tonight, so if I break the 2 more flanges I have then I will go that route.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:49 pm 

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do the 1350 route with a conversion joint. I ran that for about 1.5 years until I broke the LCA bolt and the whole thing took a shit.

That thing took the abuse that the 1310s couldn't handle.


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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 7:36 am 

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while we're on the topic of u-joint strength; say one were to run oh say 500 hp, would a 1350 be enough for worry free wheeling or would one need to step up to a 1410?

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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:09 am 

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1410 are no stronger than a 1350. only difference is the clearances for angle. the 1410 has a bigger "x" than the 1350. which gives it more room to keep from binding. but the bearing caps are the same size as a 1350 along with the girth of the "X".

so id only run the 1410 if you have driveshaft binding issues

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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:12 am 

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chevotaSS wrote:
1410 are no stronger than a 1350. only difference is the clearances for angle. the 1410 has a bigger "x" than the 1350. which gives it more room to keep from binding. but the bearing caps are the same size as a 1350 along with the girth of the "X".

so id only run the 1410 if you have driveshaft binding issues


the fact that the "X" is bigger gives it more strength, now if that is the weak spot in the joint or not I dont know.... so a 1410 has more angle of operation than a 1350? I would have figured it as the other way around....

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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:15 am 

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http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:17 am 

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Alumcj and I were having this exact discussion last night and the size of the X according to our conversation does NOT have an effect on the strength of the joint.

The size of the caps as well as the size of the joint itself does.

Now I could be wrong, but that is how I understood the conversation.

Johnny I could swap the 1350 and get the 1330 1350 combo joint, or upgrade that end of the driveshaft to 1350.

I hate buying the combo joints, they are a good 5-10 bucks more then standard joints.


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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:21 am 

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series X size cap dia angle ? constant input tq
1310 3.219 1.062 30 130 800
1330 3.625 1.062 20 150 890
1350 3.625 1.188 20 210 1240
1410 4.188 1.188 37 250 1500

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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:25 am 

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I bought a couple of combos because the rest of my 1310-cv shaft was still in good shape at the time and due to a past shipping error I had a 1350 yoke sitting on the shelf. It was a good low cost way to keep running what I had.

When I broke the LCA bolt and fubar'd the shaft, I just built with the 1410 stuff I bought when I made this thread and everybody talked me into buying 1410 stuff from Clydes.

So figure that the 1310/1350 conversion made it from about Feb 2006 until Aug 2007, and was doing fine until another break took it out.


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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 6:45 pm 

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Held together today, works pretty well.

Rear shocks are too long (I mounted them high on the axle to reduce low hanging factory stil mounts) so I need to make taller upper mounts or get some shorter shocks.

I think I would like to add 4-6 inches overall on the wheelbase....any cheap ideas or suggestions on the best way to accomplish that? There were probably at least 5 or 6 different climbs or drop offs that I either couldn't climb, or were pretty hairy coming down, so I am thinking just a bit of wheel base would help out quite abit.

Picks up a front tire EVERYWHERE, but stays balanced pretty well.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:42 pm 

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You could switch to waggy front springs, run them front and rear and gain about four inches of wheelbase because of the offset center pins.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:17 pm 
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Webwheelerousmaximus

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i buy the xj spring front rear
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=522755
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=513380

did a search for you lol


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:27 pm 
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Webwheelerousmaximus

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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567263


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Dirty DaVe

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you could redrill your spring perch too after the waggy springs . a inch forward on each front anda inch back on each rear and gain the other 2 inches you want :thumb:

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UP_ROKTOY wrote:
AlumCJ wrote:
dave has the right idea.
roger that.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:02 pm 

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I am thinking I will go waggy springs in the front and XJ springs in the rear.

I also need to trim some more fender, I trashed oneof my tires when I inverted a shackle and bent a leaf spring :(


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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:49 pm 

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To do/change List.

Cage
Winch
Front Locker
Extend Wheelbase (waggies and xj springs)
Extend driveshafts
flat skid
rocker guards
fuel cell


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