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My CJ build... Well now it's a YJ build...
 
 PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:48 am 

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Welp, picked up this '81 CJ5. Its got the 4.2, 4 speed, Dana 30 combo with D30/Model 20 axles. Wasn't sure how bad off the tub was, but pretty much just thought of it as a donor rig from the start.

Here's the purchase. It doesn't look too bad, its a 20 footer. First hint for me that it was a bondo special was the fact you couldn't see a body line between the fender and tub.

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Starting to tear into it, it was obvious that it had seen several poor attempts with everything used under the son (even roofing paper it seems) at body repair over its life span. The more I tore into it, the worse it was. First thought was just the common repair panels and it would be all set. Well luck didn't have that. This is how she sits now.

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So still need to finish tear down, then its on to the build up stages. Plan on mostly a tube style Jeep, on 35's. Keeping the grille, hood, and cowl pretty much rest will be built. Thinking 95-100" wheelbase. Going to build a new frame from 2x3 or 2x4 3/16" tube for a starting platform. The original is just too wasted in the rear, and who knows how rotted in the front on the inside. It is a Michigan Jeep thats 26 years old...

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YJ Project underway...


Last edited by Racer Rob on Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:43 am 

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Here's one of the reasons for the new frame...
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Almost have all of the old tub off.
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Some of the killer body work...
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 PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:36 am 
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Aiden's Bitch

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not sounding like a dick

but what was the point of buying a vehicle in that condition, i think if i was gonna buy it i would run it as is and not waste the time taking it apart. are you rebuilding it a 5 or a buggy seems like it would have been cheaper to just get a 5 hood and grill and start from scratche.

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 PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:46 am 

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yeah what she said :popcorn:

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:36 am 

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Yeah thats what I should have probably done. I was hoping to be able to run this one as is and work on it little at a time, but it was just too rotted out so plans had to change. Knowing what I know now, yeah would have done it different. But its too late now, so going to work with what I have. Basically keeping the drivetrain, hood, grille and cowl. I know, expensive way to get those few items. :rolleyes:

Not much for an update, just more disassembly. Hoping to get some steel to start on the new frame this weekend. Question though, what wall thickness for DOM does everyone use for cages? .125? Going with 1.75 tube. Thanks.

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:42 am 

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most people just make it .120 wall all over. if you plan ahead and know what you are doing you can mix it up to get a stronger cage with about the same weight as all .120 by using .095 .120 and .188 depending on what that particular tube will see as far as loads and impacts go.

your best bet is just stick with .120 all over and remember, node points and triangles.

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:58 am 

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Thanks :thumb:


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:10 am 
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for ease and price i would just run .120 and be done. makes sense now that you bought it to run it now i was gonna call you dumb if you bought it to cut it up.

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yj88 wrote:
Cash talks and shit happens.

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Who discovered we could get milk from cows, and what did he THINK he was doing at the time?


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:43 am 

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No I was hoping to run it, but just way too much Bondo holding it together. :rolleyes:

Oh and ALRO Steel quoted me $3.06 a foot for 1.75" .125 wall tubing. Is that about right?


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:53 am 

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its been a while since I priced steel but that sounds like hrew pricing, dom should be more than that. if that is dom pricing it's time to stock up :beer:

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:06 am 

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She said its DOM, I asked about HREW and they don't normally stock it just DOM. Thats also with my GM supplier discount :thumb:


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:57 pm 
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thats cheap i bought 11 sticks the other day of tube and it was almost a grand

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yj88 wrote:
Cash talks and shit happens.

Quote:
Who discovered we could get milk from cows, and what did he THINK he was doing at the time?


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:33 pm 
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Loves The Taco

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I like the color.

How does it flex?

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Two bee ore knot tubey. That is the question.


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:09 pm 
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HoSeJoCkEy4506 wrote:
thats cheap i bought 11 sticks the other day of tube and it was almost a grand


thats not enough for 2 cages is it and what happen to the group buy


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:42 pm 

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I have some 2x4 box (3/16" wall) for frame material if your interested. PM if interested

And roger, im going to buy some tubing for a little project...call me.

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:13 pm 
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AlumCJ wrote:
I have some 2x4 box (3/16" wall) for frame material if your interested. PM if interested

And roger, im going to buy some tubing for a little project...call me.
you change your number on me


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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:54 am 

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Couple other questions...

1. What wheelbase would you run for 35" tires. I am thinking 95-100". CJ5 sits at 84". Jeep will also be a 4 seater. I thought I read somewhere that Hosejockey's yellow Jeep was 100"? on 40's if I remember right. Not sure if thats too long when your only on 35's.

2. Is there anything wrong with making the frame the same width front to back, and just moving the rear spring perches inward? The original frame measures 29" wide at the front springs, and 37" wide at the rear springs. I am just thinking ease of build, and thinking it may be stronger if it didn't widen out at the rear. Need to get a design drawn up by this weekend so I can start the build.

This is what I am hoping to build, I found these pics on Pirate.

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Plans right now are to keep the drivetrain I have now, keep the leaf spring setup front and rear and maybe add revolvers to it (Its a Mounds rig since I am 5 minutes from there so I don't think I really need linked suspension. I also am trying to keep it simple and affordable to build), 35" tires (more on what ones to run later), add weld on beadlocks to the wheels I have now possibly, 4:1 kit and twin stick the D300 (and leaving the axle gearing alone?). May convert the 4.2 (which runs great) to propane, not sure yet. Looking at the price difference between setting up a new fuel system with a new carb/ fuel cell, etc., vs. just going propane and not dealing with the fuel on angles problems.

Was planning on adding the 1 pc shafts to the AMC 20, lock rights front and rear. May upgrade front shafts as well, or the axle itself, not sure yet.


I know its not that hardcore for you guys, but its what I have to work with. Look forward to your guy's advise on this build. Would rather ask the questions and have something I am happy with at the end to wheel with you guys, vs. just throwing something together. Hope to have it done by opening day at the Mounds.


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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:06 am 

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save your money on the revolvers. they provide ramp flex, but will cause more harm them good with their unloading.

frame straight front to back is fine, it was stock on jeep frames for years. there's a few frame pics here from what people have built, plus frame dimensions from jeep tech service manuals:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... OTM&page=2


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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:20 am 

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Thanks for the reply. Here's what I have come up with measuring from my stock frame. The front has a 4" rise, the rear is 6" rise. WB is 95"

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Mike, how much would you charge to build this frame? Basically less all the mounts, just the sides, front and rear bumpers with d-ring tabs, the winch plates (do not have to be drilled or anything, just the plates welded on. I want the winches to sit down in the frame rails, with the cable coming out of the center of the bumpers between the d-ring tabs), and rear cross member? Might be easier and worth the $$ spent to have you do it so I know I can trust all the welds etc. I can do the shock mounts etc myself. Just the main frame. Thanks.


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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:43 am 
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My Toyota is on 35s and has a stock wb of 103". I think it's perfect and if you're going to climb stuff that makes a lot of difference.

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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:52 am 

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Thanks for the info. The middle 50" measurement can always stretch to 55" for a 100" WB.


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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:04 pm 
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Webwheelerousmaximus

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What springs are you going to run? Stock YJ springs SOA would probably be good.

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 PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:36 pm 

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Not for sure yet...


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 1:40 am 

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updates

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 PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:17 am 

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Fine here's an update... CJ is no more, will now be a YJ on 3/4 ton axles

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Still getting parts together.
Have a winch, axles, leaf springs, wheels, and the engine(About the only thing left from the CJ). Picking up a YJ Frame from pavement pounder this weekend. Next weekend picking up the body. Then the build can start :thumb:

Plans are:
-YJ on 3/4 ton axles, 36" Iroc's, Comp cut rear with the XJ 6" rear stretch mod. The 4.2 might be running on propane.
:woot:

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YJ Project underway...


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