<- Home Page *Search  



1, 2, 3, 4 Reply to topic Post new topic
My new project: '88 Bronco
 
 PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:30 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I bought this '88 EB BKO from Utah about a year ago now, it has sat in my drive way the whole time I have owned it. I just picked up a '94 4x4 F-350 w/ 351W and ZF5 for a very reasonable price and was just going to part it out and use the good parts of the front clip for a new style front clip swap.

One thing led to another and I decided to finally start on the BKO. I pulled the front clip off the BKO and found the frame to be in terrible condition, sooooo... I decided to put the BKO tub on the F-350 frame. I cut about 23"s out of the middle of the F-350 frame, spliced it back together, and added a cross member for the forward tub/bed body mounts.

The rear most tub mounts will go through the frame rail and I haven't got them done yet. The lengthened wheel base was intentional. It is stretched 6.5"s from stock BKO wheel base. The rear quarters need a lot of work anyhow, so I will move the wheel wells when I fix all of the rust.

Things still on the list to do: Install the '94 Dash and wiring. Re-plumb the fuel lines, run new brake lines, install a new tail gate, and fab up some new bumpers. The rear bumper will mount over the 4"s or so of rear frame rail that sticks out, you wont even know its there when done. After all that, then I should have it ready for paint, not sure if I am going to do it myself, or take it in to a couple of guys I know that own a body shop.

Anyhow, here are the pictures:

Image

Here is the BKO I started with.

Image

Here is what it looks like now, the front clip is not bolted down yet, it still needs the core support body mounts massaged... They were stuck in there pretty bad...

Image

Image

Image

Image

This one, you can just spot the frame rail splice. I intended to take more pictures of the process, however, I was working up to my buddies shop, and tight for time, so I didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked. The frame splice is a butt joint, beveled and welded, and then plated with a 3/16" thick diamond type shape on the outside, tops and bottoms.

The F-350 frame is not a perfect fit. The front two cab mounts, and the core support mounts both need about 2.5" BL so the tub clears the higher rear frame rails of the truck frame. I am going to turn some out of 3" round bar on the lathe.

The second set of cab mounts, just behind the front seats, require re-using the old BKO body mount brackets, as the pickup ones mount inboard of the frame rails through a cross member. The four mounts in the bed of the tub just require a hole saw through the frame rail on each side, but I added a 3/16" cross member to the front set for additional strength.

All in all, I am happy with the way things are coming along. I intend to sell my '99 pickup, and daily drive and tow with the BKO. I will build some custom front and rear bumpers for it, so you will not even know the front is body lifted. The pics of the truck are with no lift, that is just the difference in stock suspension height.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Last edited by camaro13z28 on Tue Oct 30, 2007 3:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:19 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I got the BKO home last week, worked my fool butt off to get it into the shop today. Of course I had to clean in order to even fit it in there. 24x36 shop is getting awful small. Here is a picture of it in the shop, I had to stand outside the man door to get the pic. 10' ceiling, damn that stock F350 suspension is tall. I think I am going to buy a set of 35's for it when it is done, and run it at this height :D

Image

Next is a shot of the rear frame horns with the bumper removed. It shortens it up a bunch. I think I can build a bumper around that nicely, and not have to bob them at all.

Image

The rest are of the work I am doing to get the '94 dash and column in there. The first pic is of the '88s reinforcement/mounting plate removed from the firewall. Just drilled out all of the spot welds with a uni-bit and peeled it off.

Image

I saved the piece of the firewall from the '94 with all of the harness pass through cut outs, the column cut out, and brake/clutch master cylinder cut outs. The '94 is different in that the reinforcement panel is spot welded to the inside of the fire wall. I separated the two pieces, trimmed the firewall piece to fit in place on the '88. There are several places where the panels regster w/ each other, so it isn't all different. There is about a 1" dimple above the ECM that is in both panels. The brake master cylinder holes and bolt patterns are the same, and I found one other bolt hole that matched up as well. I bolted the inside reinforcement panel w/ 4 7/16" bolts through the brake MC mounting holes and the piece of the '94 firewall. I got it aligned and was able to put one of the column mount bolts threw as well. I punched a few more holes to line it all up and pull it together tightly. Tomorrow I am going to pick up some weld through primer and some 3m seam sealer. I will be cutting a bit of the '88 firewall out around the ECM mounting hole and harness bulkhead connectors. I will use seam sealer around the edges, and spot welds to hold it in place.

Image

Image

Making progress... It sucks having to stop playing with the truck to work so I can pay for the truck... It would be so nice to be independently wealthy.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:34 pm 
User avatar
I GOT NO REAL LIFE

Posts: 1753

Offline
good god. how do you find time to do all this stuff? Looks like a pretty cool project though.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 3:22 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
BBQjeeper wrote:
good god. how do you find time to do all this stuff? Looks like a pretty cool project though.


I don't sleep much, and I work an odd shift job, 12hr shifts and basically work only 1/2 of the days in a year. Add to that that I am on speed for my ADD now, and it seems I get a lot more crap done :D

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 3:57 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
A bit more progress today. Got the fire wall cut up and the new pieces in place. Seam sealer is not on yet. I have a few more '94 pieces that need welded in place in the interior, and I am not going to put the seam sealer on until it is all ready to go at once. The pedals are bolted in, but their upper mount needs spot welded back on. I have to fix a bit of rust under the windshield frame before I go that far. Here are the pics.

Image

Fire wall marked up for cuts. Used a little body saw to make the cuts.

Image

The new hole.

Image

Outer piece spot welded in place, ready for seam sealer.

Image

Inner piece in place, pedals in, upper mount bolted to pedals, but not welded down yet.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 4:00 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
A little more progress today. Got all of the parts and pieces in the firewall, seam sealer applied, pedals mounted, ECM mounted, Steering column carrier half mounted, I still need to make the A-piller mount for that. Hopefully I will have the dash back in by tomorrow. I got bored waiting for the seam sealer to dry, and started cutting back the floor to see how bad the rot was. If FORD is listening, this thing is just a piss poor design! The body mount recess/cavity was full of sand, dirt, and rocks, along with a significant portion of the metal itself. Lots more to fix, but not horrible.

Here are the pictures:

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 5:52 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
A bit more progress today. I have been down with bronchitis for about a week now, just now feeling well enough to get out to the shop for a few hours at a time.

I got all of the mounts for the steering column carrier fabed and installed, and I got the dash and steering column in today. All in all a good day. I think it looks pretty good. Somehow I lost the "boot" that the steering column goes through in the firewall. I will keep looking, but I may have to junk yard it...

Here are the pictures:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Anyone know what this wire is? It is green w/ red strip, and for the life of me, I don't remember unhooking it, and I cant find a home for it...

You can also see in this pic that I was about 1" high on all of the column carrier bracket bolts. Instead of removing everything and remaking it, I just redrilled the brackets. Other than that, it lined up pretty much perfect.

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:26 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I got some more work done today. The body lift blocks turned out to be a royal PITA! I decided to save my solid stock for the dimple dies I have been turning, so I thought, heck I have this chunk of D60 axle tube lying on the shop floor, I will turn it to size, weld .25" caps on each end, face it off and drill it to use for pucks. It took me two days to make them, and they didn't even turn out pretty... The freaking axle tube was harder than the gates of hell. I came real close to giving up on it and just using the solid round stock after all. I finished up with a huge pile of chips on the lathe, and a lot of frustration. I am guessing the tubes were 4130, every place it had had a weld on it that I turned off left a shinny spot due to how hard the heat affected zone got. Anyhow it is done... Here are some pictures.

Image

Picture of the body lift blocks that kicked my ass for two days.

Image

And work progresses on rust repair. That is 14g check plate, just because I had it around, I am out of sheet now though, so tomorrow hopefully I will be able to go pick up a bit more. I prefer to work with a little heavier sheet metal. I am really learning to hate welding the thin factory sheet metal. I keep hoping I will get better at it, but progress is slow. I went out and bought a spool of .023 wire and .023 drive rollers for my millermatic 251. I was trying to do this with .035 wire, and that is next to impossible. The .023 has its own plethora of feed problems, but at least it doesn't punch through the sheet metal so fast...

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:49 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Lots of progress over the past few weeks. When misfit went down a while back, I thought it had really closed it's doors. Just realized it's back up, so here are clips from another board.

A bit more progress today. I finished the drivers side floor board. Switched over to the passenger side. Got most of the rust cut out, had to take a significant portion of the A pillar on this side. Got a patch in the A pillar. Should tie up the passenger side floor board tomorrow. Than it is either on to my remote shifter, or the seat belt areas that are all rotted out. Depends how sick I am of sheet metal... God bless ford for stuffing foam and insulation in every nook and cranny so that things rust out in a few years. Nothing like planned obsolescence.

Here are the pics.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:03 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
I got the passenger side floor finished up, did it in 2 pieces instead of 4, mainly because I have more metal. It was easier to do in 4 pieces though, less bending...

I decided to start on the rear cabin corners. It didn't look like it was going to be to terrible... I may have been wrong. I am not sure what is worse, contorting into a pretzel to try and get the welds burned in, or hitting a rusty patch of sheet metal while welding a piece in that you though was going to get all of the rust. Anyhow, I got a ways. It's back to work at my real job for a few weeks though.

Here are the pictures.

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:04 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I got some more work done today. Patched the passenger rear cab corner. Moved on to cutting out the drivers side, I didn't have time to snap pics. I will take some tomorrow. I am holding off on patching the bed floor. I have to move the inner tubs back and would rather do one patch piece than several.

Now, on to the paint I am using. I was sold on rust bullet after seeing all the good stuff you guys have to say about it. I have decided to try something different though. I stumbled on a paint made by Kilz. It is called rust cap, and from my research, it seems it is very similar to rust bullet. It dehydrates and seals rust in a polymer and glass resin. The added advantage is it is much cheaper than rust bullet, and it comes in aerosol cans as well as quarts and gallons. It costs about $50 a gallon, and is available in several "hammered" color finishes as well as plain finishes. I bought mine at my local ACE hardware. I also purchased some loctite brand "rust converter" which is basically phosphoric acid and wetting agents. An 8oz jar was only $7. I have yet to use it, but I am going to hit the light rust with it before painting it with the rust cap.

Here are the pictures from this afternoon.

Image

Image

Anyhow, another tid-bit you guys might be interested in. Home Depot now carries Norton brand abrasives. They stock the 4.5" rapid strip discs as well as a 4x1 rapid strip disc for die grinders. They are amazing products and will take everything off the metal except for the metal.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:04 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Got some more done today. I think I have the cab area all patched up. Laid down a coat of the rust cap. I think it came out pretty good. Here are the pics:

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:05 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I cut out the inner rear wheel wells today. No unexpected issues. I cut them out so I can swap the passenger side for the driver side and end up with minimal patches. The inner splash guards were trash, and I am not going to put them back in. Just a waste of metal and a place for road salt to collect... The inner wheel wells have a fair amount of rust, but only one side went all of the way through. I will patch them up once I have them swapped. It is not going to bad, but it is still a PITA. I can't wait to be done with this sheet metal crap.

It looks like SWMBO is buying me a bead roller for Christmas. It will be a HF cheapie, so stand by for a post in the garage after Christmas for when I modify it and make it electric!

The inside of the rear quarters is not as bad as I expected. The rust is pretty much limited to 4"s or so above the wheel wells, and the bottom skirt of the fenders. I think I am going to go with patch panels instead of new quarters.

Here are todays pictures. Just got the DS wheel well started and got called in for dinner. More tomorrow before work hopefully!

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:05 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I got the drivers side rear wheel tub fully welded in. On to the passenger side soon, after that, a few little cargo area rust spots to patch and I am done cutting rust out of the interior. Hopefully I will have more time for it this week amidst the holiday festivities...

Here are the pictures.

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 4:57 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
I am by no means done with body work yet, but I started to get bored with it, so I started on my remote shifter. I made a duplicate of the ZF shifter mount and then a copy of a spicer 1310 u-joint cross. Mated the two together, and a 1310 yoke, and so far that is as far as I have gotten. The plan is to use a heim for the new short throw shifter's pivot, back between the bucket seats, similar to a sports car's shifter. I estimate I will cut the throw approximately in half. The other end of the linkage will be another 1310 half. Both joints will be greaseable and the needle bearings should stand up to a lot more abuse than just a standard clevis style linkage.

Here are the pics so far.

Image

Image

All of this work is to shorten the throw, but mostly to make space for this little gem that I got in the mail the other day. It is a 15" ELO touch monitor. Surface acoustic wave touch screen, and it is going to be the heart of my BKO's PC and AV system. It is going in a custom fiberglass center console, directly bellow the hvac controls and stock radio location. Pretty much right where the stock shifter comes through the floor.

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 5:46 pm 
User avatar
strangler is hoser's shrink

Posts: 4678

Offline
I was with ya right up until the shifter......???

Oh, and why did you buy a rotted out Bronco from Utah? We have plenty of them here in Michigan.

Nice work on the floor repair. Pure function.

_________________
Currently fearing a Rubiconish pile of parts......


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 7:03 pm 
User avatar
Aiden's Bitch

Posts: 9384

Offline
utah aka james

_________________
yj88 wrote:
Cash talks and shit happens.

Quote:
Who discovered we could get milk from cows, and what did he THINK he was doing at the time?


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:46 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
I made a bit of progress on the actual shifter. I didn't have a lot of time today, I have to go into work in a couple hours. The shift pattern will not be reversed, I will try to draw up the assembly in sketchup tonight so it will be understood better. This part is the actual base of the shifter with the second bearing trunion installed. When done, it will have a stud for the top half of the shifter to thread onto and the stud will keep the trunion in place. It has to be done this way, or there likely would not be enough room to install the yoke.

Here is the picture.

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:53 pm 
User avatar
strangler is hoser's shrink

Posts: 4678

Offline
Oh yeah, clear as mud.

_________________
Currently fearing a Rubiconish pile of parts......


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 2:38 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Okay, here is a quick sketchup model. It is not really to any realistic scale, but it should help better understand how this is going to work.

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:09 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
The shifter is temporarily together, and not working out as well as I had hoped. First of all, it turns out you cannot use the pivot point to adjust the throw, because it causes the two joints to travel through different arcs. The throw has to be shortened simply by shortening the actual shifter handle. No big deal, I turned a new one on the lathe. Next, I welded the bar in the yokes just to set it up temporarily, and it worked, but not well. It has some binding even with the lower pivot point in the linkage. It looks like the ZF shifter turns slightly as it travels into each gear. This makes things significantly more complex, and is probably why there are not aftermarket setups like this... Anyhow, I think I can solve it by making a new joint for the trans side using a full u-joint. If that doesn't work, I am going to scrap this idea and make a full closed loop hydraulic shifter :D

Here are the pictures. Notice the cracked weld on the trans side yoke. I just had a short bead on there, and it was nickel tig rod, it bound well enough to pop it while I was testing. Needless to say it is good reason not to weld cast to mild steel, especially for something like this.

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:10 am 

Posts: 3649

Offline
You should go junk yard stomping for an afternoon. Most FWD cars with Manual trannies use cables for shifting, one moves in a north/south comfiguration, and the other moves in an east/west axis. your machine skills should be able to come up with a bracket to mount to the shifter nub that you left sticking up, and they are flat and both cables shoot forward out of the shift mechanism for ease of installation.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:16 am 
User avatar
strangler is hoser's shrink

Posts: 4678

Offline
This was exactly why I was having trouble understanding what you were doing. Without a "grid" or ladder to hold things parallel you can only adjust 1 plane at a time. Just weld a shift lever on the trans and be done with it.... its not like its gonna shift like a T-56 just because your efectively shifting faster, its still a truck trans and will just mash the syncros that much more....

_________________
Currently fearing a Rubiconish pile of parts......


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:40 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
I agree, it is still going to be a truck trans, with slow truck trans shifts. That doesn't matter to me, the shorter throw is just a nice by-product, I would have no place to put my 15" touch screen w/o totally remaking the dash if I didn't move the shifter.

Anyhow, I haven't given up on the idea yet, it really should work. I looked through the FSM just to see of the ZF shifter was connected internally, and it turns out it uses a block and pin u-joint for it's pivot, basically the same critter as a regular ujoint, but no needle bearings, just brass bushing blocks. This little tidbit means that there is no way that the ZF shifter could rotate like it appears, not unless something is broken in that internal joint. I am beginning to lean toward it being a mistake on my part, as to how I attached it at the trans. I wanted to beable to put the stock shifter in place easily, since I intend to sell this ZF and buy a BB one when I finish my 460 for the bronco. I think part of the problem stems from the factory shifter nubbin (made that shit up right there...) angles. The nubbin' just clears the cover then makes a approximately 45° bend toward the cab, and probably a 15° bend toward the passenger side. I am thinking the compound angles just cause a slight optical illusion. I am going to pull the nubbin out of the trans and make it inline with internal lever.

I know about FWD cable shifters, but it would likely end up being at least as much, and perhaps more work to retrofit a setup in place. I actually considered it at one point, and that is what gave me the thought of closed loop hydro. I love the idea here, and am tempted to build it just to do it. The bitch would be filling and bleeding a closed loop system. It should be a relatively cheap concept to implement too, you only need like 2-3"s travel at the most, itty bitty cylinders like that should be very reasonable.

I still think the original idea has merit. Just to prove the concept, the picture bellow (hopefully, linked from another site) is a commercially available shifter for a np-435.

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:02 pm 
User avatar
strangler is hoser's shrink

Posts: 4678

Offline
Dont put a television in the dash= problem solved.

That aluminum shifter looks sweet, I would argue that it still won't work (but thats what I do). Any though as to why it would work and your design won't?

:beer:

_________________
Currently fearing a Rubiconish pile of parts......


Top
   
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
1, 2, 3, 4
[ 84 posts ]
Reply to topic Post new topic


Who is online

Jump to:  

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest



cron
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group