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My new project: '88 Bronco
 
 PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:56 pm 

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For the record, the truck is not going to be a trail rig, but my tow rig. I plan to megasquirt it when I put in my 460. The original idea behind a computer in the truck was so I could screw with megasquirt whenever I felt the urge. I also like car audio, and got to thinking, it would be awesome to have all my MP3's right in the truck as well. Even cooler to be able to play dixv movies and have the truck on the WIFI of my home WAN so I could copy the music or movies from my home server, and hell it would be cool to hit the web on trips while at mcdonalds, or a hotel parking lot and get weather and other updates. The truck may see light duty on the trail so the family can go wheeling with me, but that is secondary. Mobile video will keep the chitlins happy on long rides, so the monitor, as well as several others is going in :D

As for why that shifter works, and mine doesn't, I think pure and simple, I fucked it up. I think that I may have not got the trans side trunion aligned perfectly and as the trans shifter nubbin goes through its arc it is twisting the joint. I need some adjustability there, and have just not determined yet how I am going to get it.

I am home from the hospital for the afternoon to snowblow the driveway, but if I have a bit of free time, I am going to pull the shift tower off the trans and see if I can come up with a plan. This is bugging the heck out of me.

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:00 pm 
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strangler is hoser's shrink

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Am I the only one that thinks its completely awesome that your family is in the hospital and you want to work on a 435??? :flipoff: :beer:

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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 6:15 pm 

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Shhhh! I don't want my wife to find out.

I did manage to find some time to mess with it, and I am pleased to report that it is working perfectly now. It was all about the trans side joint angles. When I took the shift tower apart and got the shifter nubbin out, I found that I had it way out of alignment, both with the horizontal axis and its pitch. I cut the little adapter dealiewackie I made apart and put it all together with the shifter nubbin out on the welding table. Tacked it, got it lined up as close as I could with a tape measure, and welded it up solid. Welded the trans side yoke back on the shaft and bolted it all together real quickly before I had to head back to the hospital. It shifts into every gear perfectly, no binding now. I am going to have to machine a new connecting shaft and yokes out of aluminum though. It is heavy enough that I am worried about it staying in gear on its own. There are heavier springs I can buy for the shifter detents, but I will lighten up the shifter assembly before try messing with that.

For the doubters, it shifts into every gear with no evidence of play, it feels like the shifter is solidly connected to the trans, not remote mounted. The only thing you can feel that is different about it is the weight of it. Although the shifts are shorter and rigid, it feels very heavy.

No pics right now, the shop camera's batteries are dead. I will get some pictures of it once I am back home for the night. Yes, I am sleeping at home while my wife is in the hospital... But, having a seriously fucked up back means I don't have much choice.

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:05 am 

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Well, here are the pictures I took last night. It is hard to tell how much I changed the angle, so I am pasting one of the original pictures of how the linkage was before the change. I will take some more pictures when I take it all back apart.

Image

This is how it was originally

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This is how it is now, the pictures are taken from about the same angle. You can see how twisted it was before (pitch) what you can't really tell is how far out of alignment it was on the horizontal axis.

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:02 pm 

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I had some time to work on the center console today. I got a pretty good start to the frame for it. It is all 15/32" plywood, obviously it is not going to stay plywood, after it is together, I will pull it all apart, glue everything, and radius all of the corners. Then stretch fabric and start the glass. The reason for the cut outs is just to keep it light. The frame is just there for the fabric, so it will serve no real structural purpose once the glass is down and set.

Here's the pics:

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:41 pm 

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I got the frame for the console done today and fabric stretched. The reason for the two levels in the rear part is there is a trap door for the bottom of the top section. The bottom section will hold the trucks CPU. I will start glass as soon as I can, but with the new baby, and my wife still recovering from a c-section, it may be a few days. This weekend has been nice as my wife has been with her family :)

Here are the pics:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:24 pm 

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I did get a bit of time to work on the console again today. I got the first coat of resin down. It took a lot, about 1.5 quarts before it quit soaking it up. You want to keep putting resin down until it starts to look wet, then the fleece is done absorbing the resin. Before the pics though, I had a request on another board for supplies used, so here goes:

The fleece is from my local fabric store. I just bought the cheap crap that was on sale. Price was $4.99 a yard. I bought 5 yards. I needed just over 5 feet for the console, but I have other projects to do later. I would recommend buying lighter weight fleece than I did though, after seeing this thing soak up that much resin, the money I saved by buying the sale priced fabric would have been recouped in less resin...

I bought one quart of bondo fiberglass resin at my local walmart, I wanted 1 gallon, but they no longer sell gallons. The resin typically goes quite a ways, but the thick fleece soaked up a bunch. I had to run out in the middle to my local auto body supply and buy a gallon. They don't carrier the cheap bondo brand, and I ended up paying $63 for a gallon of some high end resin. You local home improvement store should have bondo brand resin for about $30 a gallon. Mine does, but I did not have time to drive across town. You don't need high end resin for this sort of work...

I bought a few packages of fiberglass mat as well. It is about $5 per package, it may not be enough, but time will tell. I use mostly the random chopped strand mat, it lays down better and is much stronger than any of the alternatives, like woven fiberglass mat.

Last, lots of nitrile gloves and cheap disposable paintbrushes. Dollar store paint brushes are perfectly fine.

Here are the pictures:

Image

All masked off. This is an important step. You want the first few coats to be done in the vehicle to make sure it is a perfect mate to the dash and stuff. If you get the resin on almost anything, it is stuck, and you will have to sand it off. Tape is cheap and will save you lots of grief.

Image

Image

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You can see some patches that still look wet in the pics, ideally that is what the whole thing should look like when the fleece is done soaking up the resin. I however, got called inside to help out with the babies, so I had to stop before it was 100%

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:44 pm 

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More work, the first layer of glass mat is down. It took one whole package to do one layer. I am going to do 3, and possibly 4 layers. I kind of want to pull most of the plywood frame out when it is done to make it easier to install, so the glass will have to be uber strong. You want to try to get most of the bubbles out of the mat. You keep working it with your paint brush until they lay down. The woven mat will start to become somewhat fluid and you can push and pull it around. In this case, I probably should have given the fleece one more coat before the mat went down. The fleece not being fully saturated caused more bubbles than I really wanted, but they are small enough that it should not be a problem. I also should have done the cut outs before the first coat of glass. I ran out of time when I stretched the fabric, and then got lazy yesterday and didn't do it before I started. If you cut it out before the glass you can pull the fabric around the edges and have a much nicer edge to work with. In this case, I caused myself a lot more finish work than was necessary...

Anyhow, here are the pics.

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Image

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This one is just to show how tight a fit I am getting to the OE dash.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:31 pm 

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Got another layer of mat down today, and one coat of just resin. I will probably pull it out tomorrow and sand down most of the high spots. I got interrupted in the middle of the layer of mat, wifey problems, and ended up with some stuff a bit lumpy. No biggy, at least the wife is okay. Looks like she is going to have to take it easy again for a few more days, so I may not be able to do any more work until the weekend.

Here are the pics:

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:50 pm 

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Pretty cool. I've never seen fiberglass done from scratch like that.


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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 11:28 pm 
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strangler is hoser's shrink

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Take care of the wife... the truck will always be there. Besides, its cold out and from the rear its crooked anyway :poke:

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Currently fearing a Rubiconish pile of parts......


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 PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:42 pm 

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strangler wrote:
Take care of the wife... the truck will always be there. Besides, its cold out and from the rear its crooked anyway :poke:


:flipoff: The little bit I am doing, I have the wifes blessing. Things are okay with her, just taking a bit longer to heal then she thought. She was going back about her business a bit too soon.

And as for the rear, I know it is crooked, I am not sure what happened, I think I must have tweaked the frame stretching the fleece. I will fix it before it is done, so don't worry yourself :D

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:42 pm 

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A bit more progress. I had a couple hours after our toddler went to bed, and with the wifes blessing, I headed to the shop. I pulled the console out, it came out in one piece, thank god! Hauled it to the bench and sanded the whole thing with a random orbit sander, 80 grit paper. Knocked down all of the really bad high spots, and then I cut out some of the problem areas and glued in new fleece. The worst was probably the passenger side sweeping curve. The fabric did not follow the frame very well. I should have framed in the whole curve both vertically as well as horizontally. I cut it out, glued in a piece of formed cardboard, and then glued fleece to it. I also re-did the back bottom corners, where they transition from 90° to the rounded sections. These were not terrible, but would have taken a lot of filler to get the shape I was after. Glassed up all of the new fleece, and gave the whole thing another coat of resin only. I have now gone through a 1 gallon and 1 quart of resin. I bought another gallon of resin at autozone today, much better price at only $32...

Here are the pictures:

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 3:38 pm 

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Well, this should be it for most of the fiberglass work. Two more coats of mat down today, and I will pull it out in a few hours. I will glass the hidden edges on the bench, and then sand it down and start with filler. I may get a few more ours later tonight to mess with it...

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 5:19 pm 
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Aiden's Bitch

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jason dont stop doing the updates i check this thread a couple times a day i like the step by step builds you do.

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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:28 pm 

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Cool, I am glad someone other than me is enjoying it!

No pics right now, I got some fiberglass dust in my contact and had to come inside... I got the console pulled and most of the flashing cut off. Re-cut all of the holes again and cut out some of the plywood frame. Didn't get to sanding, the back side of the console was still tacky. I found this out by putting my bare hand in it right off the start, lovely. I should have most of the day tomorrow. Hopefully I will get a mount built for the monitor, go to the hardware and get a couple of small pieces of plexiglass and start sanding and mudding. I will update with pics tomorrow.

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:24 pm 

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Hopefully good, right? All of these people waiting for disaster, I am scared now...

Commercial break... Most of you watching this are probably wondering what I am going to do with this when I am out on the road:

Image

I did not forget about cup holders. The console design is making it difficult to sneak them in though. I made this one, and it will go in the passenger side of the console. I still haven't worked out a drivers side one yet, but I have some ideas.

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BTW, this was really easy to make. I just cut the bottom off another foam cup like the one I typically have, wrapped it in tin foil, and turned it upside down and put down three layers of mat and resin. Flipped it back over, cut the foam cup out and a bit of sanding and I have a perfect fit for the cup size I typically use, and BONUS, it fits Monster cans perfectly as well!!!!

More to come in a bit.

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:53 pm 
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WANNA BE WEB WHEELER

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Yes, don't stop!

Its giving me some ideas for my center console. I tore out my plastic one and need to put some cupholders around and a storage bin for big stuff and some lockable mini compartments for stuff.

You know anything about hard plastic/foam stuff? Guy down the road build molds out of wood/tape/plastic, filled them with these beads, put it over a pan of water and stuck it in the oven. The steam triggered the beads to expand and fill the cavity. Broke it open and the stuff was pretty stiff, enough for consolish material, maybe reinforced with some alum....?

Lucas

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A wife and 3 daughters....I'm spending an unusual amount of time at work....


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:37 pm 

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Lucas, I will try to reply to your question in a bit, but for now, the important thing to know is that fiberglass resin will eat 99% of all foams. There are a few types that you can glass over, but no many. The beads you are talking about are available in all sorts of foam varieties, but I will have to do a little research to be able to tell you if any of them can hold up to the resin. You could wrap it in foil and then glass, but your best bet would be to make a male mold from the beads, make a plaster of paris female mold from the male, and then lay glass in the mold. Gel coat first and then lay glass and you will have virtually no finish work. It is probably a larger undertaking than doing it this way though, and is really only feasible for a perfectionist, mad scientist/fabricator, or someone who wants to go into production.

Later,
Jason

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Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:38 pm 

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Waiting for some glass to dry, so here is a quick update. I got the monitor mounting all worked out, I will show pictures once it is in. Started glassing the front edges of the console, where it meets the dash.

The plexiglass I mentioned in an earlier post was to cover both the monitor hole and the console opening. The pieces shown in the picture are just hot glued in each corner, and are there just to give me a flat surface to fill to so I can get a nice fillet on the edges. In a few minutes I am going in to gt my rotozip and will be cutting the hole for the passenger cup holder.

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:02 pm 

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I didn't get as far as I really wanted to, but I am about ready for filler. The glass needs a bit more sanding, but it is getting to late for it tonight. I got both cup holders in, they will need a little more glass too. All the edges are sanded. Hopefully filler will start going down tomorrow.

Here are the pics:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 11:39 am 

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make sure you sand the low spots on that b4 you use filler. that smooth glass won't let the filler stick worth beans :P

nice lookin rig, should be a very capable rig. i do like the 92+ front clip, i need to find one for my f-250 when it gets assembled


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 PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:03 pm 

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theonlybull wrote:
make sure you sand the low spots on that b4 you use filler. that smooth glass won't let the filler stick worth beans :P

nice lookin rig, should be a very capable rig. i do like the 92+ front clip, i need to find one for my f-250 when it gets assembled


Thanks. I have never had trouble getting filler to stick in the past, but I will hit them with some hand paper, It can't hurt anyhow.

I think I am going to glass in the access panel on the side. I have a new idea for being able to install my shifter, so I wont need it. I would much rather have it closed in, it will be a nightmare to get a good fit on the panel.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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 PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:30 pm 

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shouldn't take much, a lil' scuff by hand will do it. after about a year in a fiberglass shop, you tend to get rather fussy about stuff like that :rolleyes:


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 PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:17 pm 

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I got a little bit more work done. The wife and kids are back home again, so I only have a few hours at a time again. I decided to fill in the side access panel. It was only there to allow the installation of the shifter, but I came up with another plan. I will cut out enough of the bottom frame that I can install the console with the shifter in place. It was going to be a PITA to install the shifter with the console in place, access or not... The peach colored stuff glued all around the openings is foam bead for use with caulking. I am using it to get the basic shape of the finished edges, and this way it wont take so much filler to make the radii.

Here are the pictures:

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


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