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Run of the mill buildup
 
 PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:36 pm 
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Well, more floor crawling done tonight. And I recieved a gift in the mail today!

Here are a couple pics just cuz.

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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:54 pm 
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Well, I've made my decision.

I'm going to put the stuff where I want it and go with the original "if it doesn't clear the starter, I'll have to do this" option. I'm doing what all the cool rigs are doing: 2 piece front DS. I don't want to give up the clearance under the belly and I want to lower the Jeep another 1-2" so, I'm going this route.

Today I marked the clocking position on the doubler and pulled it for drilling. I pushed it almost flush with the frame.

I stopped over at Keiths "pick and pull" yard and grabbed a bunch of driveshafts that I'm going to attempt to make work. I still have my front and rear stock shafts, so between those and everything on the floor, I'm confident I can make my own set of shafts. I'd like spares, but I think I'm going to have to live with maybe the female spline end front and rear, or something like that.

I also picked up some D70 shafts for the rear axle. They measure 1/2" longer however.....? I'm going to have to test fit and see if they fit. I know with the Detroit in there, I was bottoming the shafts out on the locker. We'll see if the spool gives me more room or if I need another option.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 2:28 pm 
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Tiny progress: I installed the ball joints into my knuckles. I sold my doors and my SYE. I did however finish my shifter for the D300.

I built it out of SS and the rod ends/ ball joints I got from MMC for 25 bucks. I'm actually really surprised how well it shifts. When I had the shift forks out, I lightly buffed the edges of the shift detents and now it just clicks in and out of gear very smoothly, yet stays in each position like its supposed to!

The sticks come out just under the trans shifter, to the right of the stock shifter location.

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 PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:20 pm 
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Welp, I spent 3 hours after work today boring out the spindles and machining some sleeves for the rear axle. I wish we had a bigger lathe. I've got some nice sized boring bars, but nothing to hold them with, so I get stuck going in half way from each end of the spindles with the largest bar that fits our lathe tool holder.

I had to machine the little bit of axle tube stuck onto the spindle true to the spindle so I could spin it from that side too, being I had to go in from each end.

The tubing I used for the front axle was just about perfect for use as a sleeve for the rear axle. I'll have to grind the weld away on the inside of the axle tubes, thats the reason why I only made the sleeve about 3/4" long, I can't reach much past an inch in there with my little Dremel tool.

So, with the .687 spacer I machined into the sleeves, I hope the new axle shafts fit! I opened it to 1.605, slightly shy of the 1.620 I read the D70 spindles are. I was rather amazed how much the spindle and axle tube were offset from one another. Also the hole down the center of the spindle wasn't exactly centered either in relation to the bearing surfaces.

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 PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:53 pm 
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why did you make the sleeve so you had to have 2 welds instead of one?

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 PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:44 am 

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because he needed the axle tube a touch longer for the free shafts that will be used :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:02 pm 
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10-4 makes sense

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 PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:36 pm 
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95geo wrote:
because he needed the axle tube a touch longer for the free shafts that will be used :thumb:


Yes. Free shafts = good. Too long = bad. Spacer = good! Now to get something hobbled together to keep the spindles straight.

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 PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 6:54 pm 
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Had to babysit some welders this afternoon, so I brought my rear axle to work.

I welded the spindles back on, straight I hope! One thing I noticed: Where the axle transitions from the mounting flange to the shaft, its got a radius on it that was hitting my spindles. It was rubbing on it and preventing the shaft from seating on the hub. I had to chamfer the living crap out of it to get it close enough to mount to the hub. So, FYI, chamfer the crap out of the end of the spindle if you bore yours out, say about a .19 x 45 at first, then feather it round. On one side I had to trim the spindle down a hair shorter too.

I wonder if they make (I make) shims for the bearing races in the hub. I'd feel better with about another 1/16 clearance in there.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:09 pm 

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I know on the front there is a race that you replace the inner one with that spaces the hub out 1/8' IIRC might work on the rear also :thumb:

Pretty sure it is listed in the 60 bible on Pirate

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 PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:11 pm 
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99grandtj wrote:
I know on the front there is a race that you replace the inner one with that spaces the hub out 1/8' IIRC might work on the rear also :thumb:

Pretty sure it is listed in the 60 bible on Pirate



oooooooohh, I'll have to check it out. If its just thicker I wonder if a spacer would work just as well. Time to surf Pirate for 4 hours...

Thanks!

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 7:04 pm 
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I'll update with the nothing that has happened.

House has taken priority, baby due end of Aug. and have bathroom, bedroom and new baby girl room to finish first. Bathroom is painted and tiled, just some minor stuff like sink, toilet, wall board?, and caulk.

I managed to find some time to at least check if the contact pattern changed by installing the spool. It did. Gotta check to see what I need to change to bring my pattern from the inside of the ring gear towards the outside a bit. It looks centered tip to root and the backlash seems good.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:21 pm 
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Bathroom done.

Bedroom done.

Brick Patio done.

Starting second bedroom.

Jeep has sawdust and wood stain on it now.

All these rig updates make me depressed.

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 PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:13 pm 
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Welp, did enough around the house over the summer to get a break. I worked on a dirtbike for a couple months while I took a break from the house. First trip out, I blew something up in the engine. So, back to the Jeep :thumb:

I spent the last 4 weeks building shelving and putting away tools and parts in the garage to make some room to start on the Jeep again. Only have to sort out my 4 buckets of misc. nuts and bolts and I should be good to go.

Thanks to Halfgassed :thumb: , I was able to upgrade my torch to the next size larger tanks. I left off with empty tanks, cutting off all the mounts on the frame took about 3 refills on the torches, so going to bigger tanks makes sense!

About 2 years ago I said I was ready to order a die for my bender, but I'm going to do it now, before February, I'm doing it! 2" die has my name on it. Best price so far has been Rock Buggy Supply for a Model 105 Pro Tools 2" die. http://www.rockbuggysupply.com/

I'm also keeping my eyes open for rubber suspension joints. But the only ones I've found are the Jeep "super ride" ones, I'm not liking those ones. So, I might have to do the poly on one end and get forced into some sort of "real" joint on the other end.

I told my wife I want to finish, or at least get it rolling by spring. I'm hoping to get a bit of relief when it comes to watching the kids every night while she has things planned with her friends, moms club, and tutoring. :slap:

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 PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:28 am 

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No problem thanks for getting them outta my garage. how'd ya end up getting them filled?

I have some gm car control arms that were brand new, bushings and all buried under acouple feet of snow in the junkyard. If I can find them I could cut off the ends a ship'em to ya. How many you need?

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 PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:50 pm 
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I had to pay $25 each tank to get them retested. Other than that, they didn't have an issue exchanging them.

I think I'm going to do what 95geo suggested, cuz I can't find what I want. I'll use stock TJ/XJ control arm bushings and machine some tubing to press them into. I have 8 bushings here and one machined tube. I'll have to figure out 3 link or 4 link front and rear, then I'll know how many I'll need.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:41 pm 
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Got the quote back from RockBuggySupply....

Lucas,

The 2x6 240 die set shipped to you is $330.00 shipped.
The 2x7 240 die set shipped to you is $417.00 shipped.

The 2x6 120 die set shipped to you is $254.00 shipped.
The 2x7 120 die set shipped to you is $299.00 shipped.


Thanks
Scott


So, I think I'll save $100 and just do a 6" 120 die set. If I need a circle, I'll bend 4 of 'em and weld them together!! :woot:

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 PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:14 pm 
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:woot: Got my die ordered before February! I met my goal finally.

Now I need a compressor big enough to run my air ram... Craigslist here I come...

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:49 pm 

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what kind of machining needs to be done? just turn the inside down?

i have poly now and I want to rubber everything my damn jeep rattled like a tin can with poly trans,motor,body and link bushings...

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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:22 pm 
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Depending on the tube you buy..... I'm doing 2.75OD x 1/4wall and boring just one end to about 2.270.

Second thought, 5/16" wall might be best then one could bore out the whole thing to get a much closer fit to the bushings 2.245 dia main body.

Cut to 2" long and bore out. Press in stock rubber pieces.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:28 pm 
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Got my "new" air compressor. Its good enough to run the ram for the bender now. 220v 2 stage 25 gallon old craftsman compressor. Need to fix one line on it, but it runs and shuts off and provides air. 50 bucks.

I also wired a plug for the welder. Hope to borrow the shops welder when I need to put the big welds down.

I think I have the worst luck. I was planning a work weekend this Sat/Sun. Well, the wifes XJ won't start in the shops parking lot, key won't turn in the ignition at all. Finally resolved that today with the right big screwdriver. Then this morning I wake up to water dripping from the ceiling in my laundry room. WTF! So, today I had to patch the roof where my furnace vent goes out (that involved 2 trips to the store cuz the first can was shit). Now I get to pull down about a 2' square section of ceiling and repair that.

Bla.

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 PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:25 am 

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you have my luck. :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 5:33 pm 
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I machined all the link ends today. I don't think I'll need all 16, but I've got 'em if I need 'em. Cost 62 bucks for the steel: 2.75x.375wall DOM. I turned all of it to 2.245 ID, then I ran a step in .625 deep that was 2.275 ID. So, 10 minutes to turn each and 62 dollars equals just under $4 each.

Along with the rear frame section, I'm next going to do the mini boat sides and frame/body mounts. After carefully thinking about it, I'm going to take a cut-off wheel to the side and then worry about what I need to do to fix what I cut off later.

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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:38 pm 
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I never thought I'd have to worry about rust on a '00. I mean it saw about 5-6 years of road use, then no winters. But no. My drivers floor is rusted through from the underside. Started hitting it with a sledge and a 5" chunk of the floor fell off.

Then I look closer at the frame and there are 1/16" layers of rust chunks inside the frame rails. I hope thats not an issue. I drilled a 1.5" hole on the underside of the frame for water drainage, I need to scrape the inch layer of dirt from inside the frame rail out. I'll probably do another hole on the front section of frame too, have to add a small gussett to the side of the frame where those holes are thou.

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 PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:21 pm 
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Welp, I used my bender for the first time! It didn't blow apart!

I bent up the rear section of the frame, drilled some holes in the body for the frame section to extend through, and placed the mounting tube through some holes in the frame.

I also built a stand for my band saw, so I can trim the tubes to fit. I'd prefer a miter saw.....I may end up using the sawsall. We'll see if I can make the cuts I need using the band saw.

Speaking of cuts.....anyone have the link to the miter saw joint cuts for tubing? I can't remember what it was.

Lucas

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