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Run of the mill buildup
 
 PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:25 pm 

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about half way through

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Links/


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 PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:27 am 
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JohnnyJ wrote:


Thanks, that helped. 30 degree cuts worked really nice, didn't need any cleanup really.

I have to build a stand for my band saw thou, something to keep the other end off the floor. It never seems to end, I need to do 3 other projects before I can do one for the Jeep!

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 PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:40 pm 
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God, March last year, last post. Depressing.

I've been busy on everything but this. Typical shitty economy, slow work stuff. Keeps me working harder to maintain our boring lifestyle. Boss doubled my insurance payout with no notice, just opened my check to see it a hundred short per week after it had already went up about fifty a week the month before. Ass. So I work another 5 hours a week to pay the bills that keep going up while my pay seems to dwindle slowly.

Since March 2009, I've finished building a shed, cleared up the garage a ton. I welded new fenders on the trailer finally. The most work from last year was getting the wife knocked up again, only thing I didn't really mind too much.

Jeep related, not much: Ground more of the frame junk off, torched front spring buckets out, minor body trimming, set up the gears in the rear axle.

Recently, I brought the big welder home from work and I'll keep it till I'm done working on the suspension.

Every time I get the bug to do more wrenching on it, something comes up, this time pneumonia. :tdown:

Next scheduled post: September 2010

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 PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:14 pm 

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Well atleast you started a project :thumb: I get bored/change my mind/distracted/ of mine before they even make it into the garage. :lol: :lol:

If you want I can distract you even more when Im down in feb. :beer: ill buy :beer:

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70 bronco (keeping grass from growing under tires)
88 gmc 60/14bolt,tbi 454, sm465/205,soon to be truggy'd and 42's


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 PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 4:56 pm 

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Every time I try to start a project, I end up in the hospital.

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Bryan is a jerk. :popcorn:


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 PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:47 pm 
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Damn, I'd stop planning projects....

I moved about 200lbs of steel to the garage....raided the drop room. So, I've got plenty for some link brackets. And 95Geo, you'll hear from me when I'm ready for an opinion on angles... :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:33 pm 
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Image

Tons of work done today. I had a whole hour!!!! :woot:

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 PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:23 pm 
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Just about finished up the passenger side. I used 2x2x.12 angle on the body side, then a 3" wide x .19 piece welded along the bottom of the body. I tied both together with a piece of 1/4" x 5". I also left it all intrude the rear wheel well area by about 4". I can then fill in the gap left from pushing the rear axle back.

I originally wanted a steeper angle (less body) on the sides, but after playing with angles and plates, I decided it just fit better like this. I plan on running the 3 (or two) body mounts up tight to the top of the frame rails. First I'm going to do the drivers side, then get the body mounts on. Not all that extreme of a boat side, but it was nice to get the rusted floor sections removed. I'll fill in the voids with some spray foam when I'm done, try to keep the water from collecting.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 10:19 pm 

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Expanding spray foam holds moisture, does not block it out, so you may want to reconsider your choice.

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 PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:59 am 
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Zook94 wrote:
Expanding spray foam holds moisture, does not block it out, so you may want to reconsider your choice.


I thought there was a spray foam they used inside car bodies to deaden sound etc...? Probably a certain kind and really expensive. I was hoping to use the yellowish spray foam that sticks to everything.

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 PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:10 pm 
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Finally finished the drivers side boat side/rocker guard. I ground down all the welds, smoothed 'em out. Shot of light primer too. It turned out really nice. I was able to get rid of the rust starting on the drivers side floor, so I'm rust free!!! Still trying to figure out what to put in there....

I'm working on the rear frame section tonight. I cut some 1/4" plates and put a 2" hole in the center (I NEED a 1/2"min floor drill press for the garage). I plan on welding those plates on the inside of the frame and sticking a 2" tube through both frame rails to tie it all in. Its up tight to the body (1/2" clearance) right at the floor step, I hope its in an out of the way place.

For the side body mounts I wanted to clamp a piece of 1/4" rubber between two plates. Any opinions on using that vs. a real rubber body mount vs. a poly bushing? I'm going for maximum clearance along the sides.

Its been a long summer. Township made me put a foundation under my shed, so I did all the moving/digging/pouring myself by hand. Pick axe FTW! Took a lot of my free time up. Then a friend gave me a rusted '78 Ford and I've been messing around with that at work on and off. Right now I'm trying to free up the seized engine after finally getting the trans in and fabing up a clutch and cross member for it. Once it runs (hopefully) I have a plow ready for it (Thanks Halfgassed!) and I'd like to use it around the shop. If I can't free the engine up, I'm parting it out and scraping it before the snow flies. Then there is the new baby, 3 months now, my 2 year old ( :btchfight: ) and my 4 year old, great summer for them, I put in a new play structure.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:36 am 

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shoulda said something about the seized engine, I just scrapped a perfectly good runner :lol: it was only attached buy the motor mounts too, she'd have been a quick pull

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70 bronco (keeping grass from growing under tires)
88 gmc 60/14bolt,tbi 454, sm465/205,soon to be truggy'd and 42's


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 PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:33 pm 
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halfgassed wrote:
shoulda said something about the seized engine, I just scrapped a perfectly good runner :lol: it was only attached buy the motor mounts too, she'd have been a quick pull


Just got it to turn over on Friday. Only took 2 weeks of soaking. Saturday I had it running on starting fluid, but I can't get the fuel through the carb.

I also had time to shear up all the stock for the side body mounts. I'm going to just sandwich rubber between 2 plates, in 4 places.

I'm back now to the motorcycle of mine. I've torn it down and ordered new main bearings. I also had to swap 3rd gear with my spare engine, it was cracked nearly in half and chipped teeth about 70% around it. I have a trip to the UP on Oct 9 weekend, so it needs to run by then!

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 PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:43 pm 

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Have you replaced the rubber fuel hoses that came factory on the jalopy? I have seen many times when fuel rated hose breaks down inside and turns to goo, I guess like un-vulcanized rubber, and can clog the carb if it makes it that far. Check the fuel pump to see if you have fuel getting TO the pump, and I would drop a hose into a gas can straight into the fuel pump to see if the mechanical pump is still among the living. If it doesn't pull, just bypass it and get an electric one.

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 PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:48 pm 
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Zook94 wrote:
Have you replaced the rubber fuel hoses that came factory on the jalopy? I have seen many times when fuel rated hose breaks down inside and turns to goo, I guess like un-vulcanized rubber, and can clog the carb if it makes it that far. Check the fuel pump to see if you have fuel getting TO the pump, and I would drop a hose into a gas can straight into the fuel pump to see if the mechanical pump is still among the living. If it doesn't pull, just bypass it and get an electric one.


Today I came in and there was fuel all under the truck. Looks like the hard line has a leak. I'm going to replace that section before I mess with the carb. The very first thing I did to the carb install was add a new large fuel filter about 1' in front of the carb with new line down to the pump and from pump to the factory hard line.

Hopefully its a matter of fuel pressure because of the leaking line. We'll see.

I did trace the fuel from the tank all the way to the carb, took a bit to prime it, but seeing the leak today, I think I know why.

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 PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:21 am 
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Had the old Ford running last night. Bent up a new hardline and all was well. There was a crack in an area behind the proportioning valve I couldn't see. Just need driveshafts, convert front to 8 lug, u-bolts for the rear, finish hooking up brakes and then the plow.

I put my bikes engine back together last night too. New bearings along with the new 3rd gears. Spins much quieter now. No more growling and the magneto end of the crank doesn't wobble around anymore so my points gap should be consistent now (cross fingers).

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 PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:00 pm 

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Hey, didn't this 5 page thread start out about a Jeep project? Now we are building Ford pickups and motorbikes?


Just wonderin....

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 PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:46 pm 
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Zook94 wrote:
Hey, didn't this 5 page thread start out about a Jeep project? Now we are building Ford pickups and motorbikes?


Just wonderin....


LOL, yeah, its turned into a Blog about my projects. I'm taking a break to try and finish the other crap that piles up. A two week break, then back at it. I promise. No more posts unless Jeep related! :slap:

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 PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:31 pm 
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I've been picking up some stuff recently.

A wagoneer steering box (I was told) don't know year, but my stock one is leaking and I need to rebuild one, might as well be something a bit stronger (so I've read). Plus I wanted to drill and tap for hydraulic assist if I go that route.

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I nabbed a few springs from a ZJ, I'm not sure which is front, rear, lifted or not, but maybe I can mix and match to work for me. Between my old springs and these, I might find what works.

Image

I also bought about 80lbs of brackets from Ballistic Fab. They had a sale back in November, and I had some money. I figured it would save a bunch of time. I picked up what I thought I would need for a 3 link front and 4 link rear. I'm sure most will need to be tweaked a bit to work, but it will probably save a bunch of time. Link towers, track bar mounts, coil mounts, shock mount tabs, etc...

Image

I also brought home 2 sets of Wagoneer axles, both offset, to go with my Suzuki engine/trans/t-case for that way in the future project.

Image

I also have a high steer arm which means I'm ready for fit on that end whenever the rest gets ready. I've been holding off on the body mount brackets I made, I'm just not liking what they look like. Anyone just bolt the body/frame together without rubber between?

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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:09 pm 

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For what it's worth: I ran brand new ZJ V8 springs on my Jeep for about a year- these were brand new from the dealer, and the Jeep was a pavement pounder- sagged MASSIVELY in 6 months. I got 3-1/4 out of them to start, but they were stockish height after a year of mostly street driving.

***edit: the ones I had were the weird dual rate ones, not what you've got in the milkcrate of goodies.

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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:00 pm 
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Trying to collect coil rates and free lengths. I'd like to know what I have on my garage floor.


XJ front springs OEM is supposedly 147 lb/in rate.
Tera 4" TJ coils 200 lb/in rate , 20.25" tall unloaded
Tera 3" TJ coils 170 lb/in rate
Rusty's 4.5" 150 lb/in rate, 22" tall unloaded
RE's 4.5" ZJ coils 240 lb/in rate, 22" tall unloaded
Rustys 3" coils 150 lb/in rate.
Rancho 3" coils 235 lb/in rate
OEM is supposedly 147 lb/in rate.
OME coils 148 lb/in rate
OEM Old man EMU XJ is supposedly 142-147 lb/in rate. 17" length 5.25" diameter
OEM ZJ with 4.0 is supposedly 190 lb/in rate front and rear.
OME 930 coils: 160 lb. spring rate
OME 934 coils: 180 lb. spring rate.The 934 spring is 35 mm (1.37") longer than the 930 spring.
The 930 is listed as a XJ or ZJ I-6 spring and the 934 is listed as a ZJ V-8 spring but is also used on the XJ.
RE Rubicon Express 4.5in ZJ coils are 240 lb/in.
RE 5.5XJ coils are 4.5ZJ coils.
Rusty's 6.5" 22" long, 12 wraps of 5/16" stock
Rusty's 4.5" coils 150 lb/in rate, 22" tall unloaded
Rustys 3" coils 150 lb/in rate.
Rockkrawler 6.5" are 165 lbs/in
SJ Sky Jacker 3" ZJ coils 218 lbs/in
SJ 6in XJ RR coil is 13 coils and same height and thickness as the RE ZJ4.5in XJ5.5in coil.

From TeraFlex customer service email to T.N. (June 2004):
TJ springs
SR3T- Free length= 15" Spring rate= 190
SR4T- Free length= 15.38" Spring rate= 210
SF3T- Free length= 19.5" Spring rate= 170
SF4T- Free length= 20.25" Spring rate= 200

From Rubicon Express customer service email to T.N. (November 2004):
The 3.5" TJ fronts are approximately 240 pounds per inch. Uncompressed free length is 19"
The 4.5" TJ fronts are approximately 219 pounds per inch. Uncompressed free length is 19.75"

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 PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 7:09 pm 
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I just don't know. I have a plan and now it might get all screwed up. My buddy Kieth called me on Friday and said he had a Dodge D60 Kingpin passenger drop low pinion 4.56 gears that I had to pick up at the junkyard. It is being torched out of a work truck that ran until it had trans problems. Apparently it had 40k miles on it and he said everything was tight on the axle. Cost to me is zero, just need to go get it.

I'm not doing anything until I see the thing in my garage (how I'm going to move it I don't know). I wonder how much my D44 project axle is worth.....

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 PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 6:40 am 
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Ditch the D44 and go with the 60.

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 PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:58 pm 
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Got some body mount/trans mounts. I looked around for the cheapest ones, with outer steel tube/shell they were about $11.50 each plus shipping. I found this site : http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/ and they shipped 'em in 2 days. They were $13.77 for 2. So about $6.89 each but they don't have the outer shell. Not an issue, I've got tubing at work. So I saved about $25 bucks.

Thats my little girls hand, she wanted to see it in the picture!
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 PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:59 pm 

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lgottler wrote:
Got some body mount/trans mounts. I looked around for the cheapest ones, with outer steel tube/shell they were about $11.50 each plus shipping. I found this site : http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/ and they shipped 'em in 2 days. They were $13.77 for 2. So about $6.89 each but they don't have the outer shell. Not an issue, I've got tubing at work. So I saved about $25 bucks.


Allot of stuff on that site, thanks.

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