<- Home Page *Search  



1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 Reply to topic Post new topic
chassis progress:99.9% poser shots 8/10
 
 PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 11:22 pm 

Posts: 916

Offline
Comparing pressures doesn't mean much until you compare the amount of shaft showing as well. I have 4.5" of up travel with 165psi in my front shocks. If I add 20 psi I'm close to 5.75" uptravel.

_________________
We-Rock/XRRA #199

Badlands Offroad, Maxxis, Superior Axle, Solid Axle Ind, Spidertrax, PSC, Branik Machine, QA1, High Angle Driveline, Warn, Sway-a-way, Cottman Transmission, PRP Seats, Summit Racing, CTM Racing, Allied Wheel, and McKinney corp.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 9:23 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Bryan wrote:
the welding rod you want 220m crown rod for arc or tig I would arc it more fill


Thanks. I guess I will try it. Crown lists it as mild steel filler for a variety of metals, I guess I dont see how it is going to be any better than the mild steel wire it was welded with... but I will re-do it. Better safe than sorry.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 9:27 am 

Posts: 763

Offline
Badlands44 wrote:
Comparing pressures doesn't mean much until you compare the amount of shaft showing as well. I have 4.5" of up travel with 165psi in my front shocks. If I add 20 psi I'm close to 5.75" uptravel.


My pressures were set with the shocks fully extended, I am sure my pressures are much much higher at the shocks ride height, which is 5.5" of shaft exposed in the front and 6"s exposed in the rear. I was currious to see what pressure casey is running, as that shows what the pro's are to the 2.5"{ shock, there is a substantial difference in pressure to get a similar ride height, and this makes the spring rate much lower as well (unless he has shit loads of oil in them) I like the fact that the 2.5's aren't going to try to unload as much as the 2.0's, but I am still going to wheel with the 2.0's this season and see how they do.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:43 am 

Posts: 916

Offline
I am talking about fully extended pressure too. I could put 250psi in my shocks if I wanted 10" of uptravel.

_________________
We-Rock/XRRA #199

Badlands Offroad, Maxxis, Superior Axle, Solid Axle Ind, Spidertrax, PSC, Branik Machine, QA1, High Angle Driveline, Warn, Sway-a-way, Cottman Transmission, PRP Seats, Summit Racing, CTM Racing, Allied Wheel, and McKinney corp.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 4:25 pm 

Posts: 89

Offline
Badlands44 wrote:
Comparing pressures doesn't mean much until you compare the amount of shaft showing as well. I have 4.5" of up travel with 165psi in my front shocks. If I add 20 psi I'm close to 5.75" uptravel.


AND the angle at which the shock is acting on the suspension. Less perpendicular to the arc of travel, the more air pressure required to get your ride height.
jim-kb8ymf


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:53 pm 

Posts: 916

Offline
Good point.

_________________
We-Rock/XRRA #199

Badlands Offroad, Maxxis, Superior Axle, Solid Axle Ind, Spidertrax, PSC, Branik Machine, QA1, High Angle Driveline, Warn, Sway-a-way, Cottman Transmission, PRP Seats, Summit Racing, CTM Racing, Allied Wheel, and McKinney corp.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:31 pm 
User avatar
Loves The Taco

Posts: 5093

Offline
My only concern is that you built this nice buggy and spent all that time and money and you have such shitty tires.

_________________
Image

Two bee ore knot tubey. That is the question.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:25 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
They will hook up just fine once I get them good and sticky doing 4 wheel burnouts in the road :)

Actually I am ordering 42's probably next friday. I am really tempted to go 49's but that is just too big for 60's no matter what shafts I put in them.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:25 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
More pics... H1 wheels are done (there is another thread around with details) The tires came in today and I got them all mounted up. The H1s are by far the easiest beadlocks I have ever put together, I had all 4 tires mounted in about 2 hours working alone. I have them bolted on the buggy, it is starting to look like it needs to be wheeled! I ordered seats for it last friday, and once I get some other stuff caught up I will be finishing the tube work for the dash and floor and putting a floor in it. Hopefully by the end of the month.

On a side note, do any of you know what the wait time is to get an Atlas II or maybe a stack box? I am seriously thinking the 205 is not going back in there...

Here are the pics:

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:12 am 
User avatar
Webwheelerousmaximus

Posts: 709

Offline
it looks way more proportioned now (is that a word?)

tires sure make it look like a rig!

_________________
www.ucora.org
www.4given4x4.com


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:56 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Yeah, it does look a lot shorter now with those tires. I wish I had had them for my CJ. The wheel base on this is 118, a bit longer than some, but I will have a totaly flat belly skided with HPDE...

and yes, proportioned is a word :)

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 1:30 pm 
User avatar
Dirty DaVe

Posts: 2265

Offline
Looks like the buggy from armagedon....the armadilo! Looks ok but it looks really tall in the top...like the roof is high! Maybe its the door bar thats throwing it off?? :thumb:

_________________
ImageImage
UP_ROKTOY wrote:
AlumCJ wrote:
dave has the right idea.
roger that.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 3:07 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
I got some of the runners for the floor in and one temporary seat mount made to see where the seats were going to sit... Who thinks the chassis is to tall now? I have to do some major remodeling for head room. I always intended for the seats to be at the angle that is shown in the pictures, I did not however, intened for them to be so far off the floor. The floor of the buggy is 8"s above the bottom of the chassis, the front of the seats mount about 6"s above the floor and have to be that high to clear the clocked 205. I am probably buying an atlas next month, so I may be able to lower them quite a lot just because of that, but with the 205 in there is is not going to work. I can get 1.5"s by ditching the sliders on the seats, and intend to do so, sliders are about useless after 1 week in our weather. I also may be able to get about an 1" closer to the tcase as well, and will do so if I can pull it off. Anyhow, it kind of puts things back in perspective, it doesn't look so tall now, does it? Here are the pics...

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 4:18 pm 

Posts: 916

Offline
Its gonna look tall no matter what because you made the skid plate area so wide. If you look at a picture and imagine the lower section angled in it would look just as low as most other buggies.

_________________
We-Rock/XRRA #199

Badlands Offroad, Maxxis, Superior Axle, Solid Axle Ind, Spidertrax, PSC, Branik Machine, QA1, High Angle Driveline, Warn, Sway-a-way, Cottman Transmission, PRP Seats, Summit Racing, CTM Racing, Allied Wheel, and McKinney corp.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 7:42 pm 

Posts: 869

Offline
your seat is angled back way too much. you may want to review that postition a little more.

on a side note, what seats are those? where did you get them?

_________________
Team Mall Crawler #669
A-Z Fabrication


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:01 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
The angle of the seat was going to be my next question. As stated above, the seat mounts are just temporary so I could get a feel for things, and in the pictures, the seats are probably reclined about 10* cause I was fucking around trying to get more head room. They felt pretty comfortable sitting with the back locked in the full upright position and with the actual seat at that angle. I will probably raise the back another 2"s or so and see what it is like. That is going to make my headroom issue worse though... I lowered the top of the chassis about 6"s way back when I was first starting, cause it looked way to tall, now I am regretting that descision. I will get it sorted out eventualy though.

Anyhow, about the seats, I bought them off ebay, $234 for the set shipped to me. They are pretty comfy, but they seem a bit too narrow in the shoulders, I expect they will break in a quite a bit and I do have very wide shoulders, so this may not be the case for everyone. They are a suspension type seat, and seem to be decent contruction for the money. The material is hella cheap though, and has kind of a felt type feel. I doubt they will last longer than a year or so in our weather, but if the seat stays in good shape I will probably have them recovered with neoprin and still have much less money in them than mid to high end racing seat. The auction number on ebay was 8051817986, the seller has lots more available in lots of different colors. Shipping took about 4 days out of cali.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 2:55 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Okay, more pics, I lowered the front of the seat as far as I could, ditched the sliders and have it remounted. I have 2-3"s above my helmet and probably a full 5"s above my bare head to the bottom of the spreaders. I have a picture of my dad sitting in the seat with my helmet on is anyone really wants to see it to give me an opinion. I was going to bend up tube seat mounts instead of the angle iron, but I think I am going to leave the angle iron when all is said and done. It is plenty strong, and you will never see it once panels are on the body. I am open to suggestions though.

Here are the new pictures...

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 3:43 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Well, I have about 2/3rds of the floor in, one thing I have found out for sure is I am defenitely not cut out to be a sheet metal man... The floor and tunnel is not perfect, but after redooing a few things 2-3 times with the same results, I realized this was probably as good as it was going to get without a brake and other sheet metal tools... Anyhow, the atlas has been in since 3 days or so after it arrived, the shifters were tight going in and I may end up just building some cable shifters for it, but I am going to see how it goes with it like this. Here are the pics...

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 5:15 pm 
User avatar
Aiden's Bitch

Posts: 9384

Offline
why not boat side it more your belly is huge on that thing from the looks of it is there any way to hack the bottom sides off ??

_________________
yj88 wrote:
Cash talks and shit happens.

Quote:
Who discovered we could get milk from cows, and what did he THINK he was doing at the time?


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 5:32 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
Belly is 5'x4', it is big, but if you look back at the first pic in the thread of the software model you will see why it is fairly too late to boatside it now. The "b" hoop of the cage is all one piece basically and it sweeps up and in to form the lower rails of the engine compartment. If I cut it up, it is cutting up a big structural part of the chassis and I dont really know how I would be able to make it strong again and tie everything back together. If someone had pointed out to me that I was going to want to do this back when I modled it in the software, I would have went ahead with it. As it is, I think I am going to run it like it is and see how it does, the big flat belly might actually help out if I hit the mud drags again this year. I dont really think that haveing rockers is going to be a big deal one way or another in the rock terrain we see. I have seen arguments both ways, where a vehichle with rockers pivoted off a rocker and walked "x" obsticle while the same rig with boat sides got wedged in... If I smash up the rocker tubes bad enough, I will cut them out and replace them with .25 wall or heavier DOM.

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 6:44 pm 

Posts: 1546

Offline
looks good to me. Won't be a competitive crawler, but is perfect for what you're building it for....

_________________
Ford powered MCM chassis


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2006 7:05 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
I have the floor and the tunnel finished, radiator is in, and the orbital is mounted, but the mount is not finished. I also have to finish the steering colum for the orbital, I am just lengthening a fork truck one because the best prices I could find for a column for it was like $80 and I figured I would try what I had first... Anyhow, I still need a firewall, side panels, brake master cylinder, and gas pedal, dirveshafts and paint and I think she is about ready to roll. Here are the new pictures.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 4:47 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
More done now, firewall is in, although not as nice as I like, it will have to do because I cannot afford any more aluminum at this moment. I also got one door skin on, I stumbled on the idea of cutting pannels with my air shears, and they cut a much better line than trying to do it with plasma. I thought about useing them early on in making the pan and stuff, but didn't think that they would cut the 16 gauge stuff, man I wish i would have tried them a sheet and a half of aluminum ago... Anyhow, here are the pics. It is comming along, with any luck I will be able to wheel it once or twice this summer... So much for getting it done by spring, huh?

Image


Image


Image


Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 4:50 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
And one more thing, should I put a dash in, or just build a gauge pod of some sort to sit on the tunnle. I am leaning toward a gauge pod, but I will also need some place to house the computer if I don't put a dash in. Any input?

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
 
 PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:23 pm 

Posts: 763

Offline
More work today, other door skin, and started on the rear skin. Nobody has any input on a dash, huh? Anyhow, another questions, any good ideas on getting the radius in the back panel? I tried pulling it into place with the fastners, and that got it close, but it need to come about a half inch closer to the outside tube. Think trying to roll it over a big piece of pipe would work? Give me some ideas...

Heres todays pics.

Image

Image

Later,
Jason

_________________
Jason Campbell

"Vehicles illegally parked here will be cheerfully disassembled and used for parts"

1985 CJ-7, 460,C6,BW1356,NP205, R/C Front D60, Standard Rear, 37" Irocks, 4 link front and rear, locked front and rear.


Top
   
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
[ 167 posts ]
Reply to topic Post new topic


Who is online

Jump to:  

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest



cron
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group