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Shaft shortening
 
 PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:38 pm 
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Got some D70 shafts to replace my 30 spline D60's, only problem is they are roughly 1/2" too long. I test fit them in the spool and took numbers from mounting surface to mounting surface and I end up just about 3/4" too wide.

What solutions are there to get the spline to go further? Have to respline? Use a grinder and cut the splines a little further? Turn the shaft down to allow the spline to engage further?

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:48 pm 

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Is there a shoulder inside the spool to keep the shafts from inserting too deep?

It could be as easy as cutting 3/8" off of each splined end so the axles sit deeper on the bore. If thats the case, use a band saw to cut the material, so you don't lose the hardening.


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 PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 6:59 pm 
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It appears to me that the spool is relieved and only the splines extend into the bore, it is relieved both on the out sides and on the center with about 2" of splined area.

From the witness marks (dirt buildup) on the shafts, that the spline is the stop.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:34 pm 
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Surfing pirate yielded another idea. I thought about it at first, but dismissed it as stupid....it appears that others have had the same idea....making a thin spacer on the hub....

These shafts were free, so I'd like to use them!

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 PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:58 pm 
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Zook94 wrote:
Is there a shoulder inside the spool to keep the shafts from inserting too deep?

It could be as easy as cutting 3/8" off of each splined end so the axles sit deeper on the bore. If thats the case, use a band saw to cut the material, so you don't lose the hardening.


bandsaws will not cut a hardened shaft

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:02 am 

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HoSeJoCkEy4506 wrote:
Zook94 wrote:
Is there a shoulder inside the spool to keep the shafts from inserting too deep?

It could be as easy as cutting 3/8" off of each splined end so the axles sit deeper on the bore. If thats the case, use a band saw to cut the material, so you don't lose the hardening.


bandsaws will not cut a hardened shaft


c'mon up and I will hand you 1/4" slices of D44 shafts.


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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:12 am 
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there not hardened :alumcj:

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:13 am 

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just because it's "hardened" doesnt mean its too hard to cut. I cut grade 8 bolts all the time and they feel soft when cutting

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:16 am 
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95geo wrote:
just because it's "hardened" doesnt mean its too hard to cut. I cut grade 8 bolts all the time and they feel soft when cutting


ok let me rephrase a band saw wont cut a 4340 hardened shaft. i destroyed a blade one day.

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:24 am 
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Your standard band saw blade is what, Rc 45-48? If the shaft is harder than that, you aren't cutting it.

I could cut one of the twisted D60 shafts off and torch a hole in the center and use it as a spacer.....hmmmm

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:17 pm 

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a spacer will give you too many mating faces, if you run a spacer on the outside of the flange dont be surprized if you break the bolts.

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:28 pm 
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A bandsaw blade is typically in the 50's whereas a shaft is in the 40's. The trick to not wiping out the blade is to slow it waaaay down and use a coolant. Oil or water will work.

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:23 pm 
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Brilliant!

I was planning on cutting off the spindles so I could bore them out at work (don't have a big enough lathe to spin the whole axle). Well, when I go to put them back on, I could simply make the sleeve for alignment have a rib in the center that was 1/2" or so wide and make two weld passes on either side of it. That way I can expand the axle tube to work with the slightly longer shaft without needing to fill a 1/2"+ wide gap with weld.

Thanks guys for the idea! All the bandsaw tech got me thinking! Well, 9:30pm, must leave work now...what a long day but it ends with a problem solved :beer:

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:01 pm 

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I'm going to make casey some safety glasses out of the axle end slugs I have laying under the band saw.


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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:27 pm 
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Zook94 wrote:
I'm going to make casey some safety glasses out of the axle end slugs I have laying under the band saw.


can you not read

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:52 pm 

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WhiteRhino wrote:
A bandsaw blade is typically in the 50's whereas a shaft is in the 40's. The trick to not wiping out the blade is to slow it waaaay down and use a coolant. Oil or water will work.


yes, I have been reading


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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:51 am 
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HoSeJoCkEy4506 wrote:
95geo wrote:
just because it's "hardened" doesnt mean its too hard to cut. I cut grade 8 bolts all the time and they feel soft when cutting


ok let me rephrase a band saw wont cut a 4340 hardened shaft. i destroyed a blade one day.


no you arent

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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:25 am 

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you work at a machine shop, dig out a dividing head and go to town. Remeber in that crawl mag it show'd that guy splining shafts in a mill, IIRC he had a shaft in a dividing head, and the other end supported in a v-block. I was thinking bout trying a set but the only way we have to index around here either has too small of a bore for a 1.5" shaft or not enough degreeing capability. Guess I'll just have ta wait till I get my own.

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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:40 am 
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Lucas,
Take it over to Riverside spline and gear in Marine City. Not worth trying to setup and respline yourself.

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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:35 pm 
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I've already got a solution....

When I cut off my spindles to bore them out, I'm welding them on roughly 1/2" further apart so I don't need to respline anything.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:18 pm 

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That's a good solution so that you can stick with stock replacement parts.


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