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Few retubing ques.
 
 PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:15 pm 
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OK, finally got around to removing the tubes from my center section.

I have tubes from a 10 bolt axle as replacements.

I have some of the old axle dimensions I need out in the garage and its cold and windy....Anyways, I plan on just sticking the 10 bolt tubes into my HP44 center section. I thought I would slide in the tubes till they hit the "lip" inside the center section, then trim to length, but I'm doubting myself now.

I noticed the outer tube is turned down slightly, and if I cut that off for the right length, I'm thinking the "C" won't fit onto the axle tube anymore.

Anyone have some good links to retubing threads? Sites?

I suppose I could turn the ends down further down the tube before I press them in and then wherever they get cut, they will be the right diameter....

Any suggestions?

Also, any sites out there with axle specs?

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:38 pm 

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lgottler wrote:

Anyone have some good links to retubing threads? Sites?

I suppose I could turn the ends down further down the tube before I press them in and then wherever they get cut, they will be the right diameter....

Any suggestions?

Also, any sites out there with axle specs?

Lucas


pirate

my suggestion would be to stop polishing a turd, by the time you put chromoly shafts in a 44 you have just paid for the 60 you thought was too expensive and you have no room to expand.

you might not want to hear it but its the truth.... :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:37 am 
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Yeah, but with all the people dumping their 44's.....might pick up some cheaper used chromo shafts etc...

I wheeled for 3 years on stock D44 shafts, only when I pushed myself beyond my normal wheeling aggression level did I end up wasting both shafts and a hub.

I'll have to get back on Pirate....I hate the wait time for page loading...is it just me? Takes about 10 seconds every click just to begin loading and once loaded you wait another 10 seconds for an ad to finish before it lets you scroll!

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:13 am 
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I cleared all my "history" and cache files and it seems to work much better now surfing Pirate. It better be since they automatically billed me again for membership :rocket:

Nobody is saying, so, I'll just do it the way that seems right. I already know how long the tubes have to be, so I'll get out the tape measure and see just how much I need, if any, to turn down.

My build keeps morfing, the more people tell me to do 60's and 70's, the smaller I want to go....anyone got a D35 they want to get rid of? :lol: I already passed up the $400 D60 front....

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:53 am 

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lgottler wrote:
I already passed up the $400 D60 front....


point me in the direction, ill even give you a little finders fee :poke:

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:27 am 

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I guess I don't get your question. it seems like what you need to do is press off whatever inner c's you plan to use and find that ID and see how close that is to the OD of your 10-bolt tubes.

if it's close then you might be able take it off with a flap wheel or quite a bit, then it might be worth having somebody turn down the tubes.

This seems pretty basic, so I'm thinking there must be more?

I haven't shortened/retube a d44, but when we shortened my d60 we did basically what I stated and we were able do it in a garage with no fancy tools other than a sawzall, chopsaw, some die grinders and hammers.


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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:27 am 
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95geo wrote:
lgottler wrote:
I already passed up the $400 D60 front....


point me in the direction, ill even give you a little finders fee :poke:


I considered it for a day or two.... tack on another $200 for gas to get it thou! Was north west of Chicago, that was back in early summer. Gone by now...

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:30 am 
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JohnnyJ wrote:
This seems pretty basic, so I'm thinking there must be more?


See, as I type, I answer my own questions usually!

Really, I was asking for any advice from people that have done it in the past and could offer any suggestions or tricks they had learned along the way.


See, originally I was just going to slap in the tubes and trim them off. Then I realized that the ends were turned down to fit the C's. Well, I couldn't do what I wanted to do. Then when I was torching the old tube from the housing, I saw that they didn't press in the tube all the way home, they left about 1/4" short of the lip. So, all this got me thinking that I was missing something somewhere, some basic knowledge that never sunk into my head! The 10 bolt tubes are a perfect fit into the D44 housing, its just they are 3/8" thick instead of 1/4" thick.


You could probably ignore most of my posts, cuz after I read them a few times, I'll answer myself!! :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:44 am 

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cut, splice, chamfer, weld, grind.

when I narrowed whiterhino's 60 it was a pita to get the inner c off the tube, i ended up drilling along the axis of the tube in the wall of it to relieve the press fit. even after .100" was taken off the face with the weld on it I couldnt get it to budge, it maxed out the 20 ton press. after relieving the press I tapped it out with a hammer.

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 PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:41 pm 
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95geo wrote:
cut, splice, chamfer, weld, grind.


I wish it was simple as sleeving it and being done. But the drivers side had the cast radius arm mounts and the whole axle had the 1/4" wall tube. So, I would have at least had to completely remove the drivers side tube, so why not do both sides? Thought about finding an F250 D44, but I have an emotional attachment to my axle.

I still can't think of a reason why not to run the tubes to the lip on the center section. There seems to be room between the bearing and the seal....

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