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Removing tubes
 
 PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:06 pm 
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WANNA BE WEB WHEELER

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OK, C's are easy to remove. Done.

Now, tell me a quick, simple, easy way to remove the tube from the center section....

My little Dremel is about dead. I'll borrow his big brother (Du-More) from work tomorrow with a few carbide bits....drill out the rossett welds and press out....

Any tricks? I know I need to remove my seals first....

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 PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:37 pm 
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I went to staples and bought one of those "easy buttons" and wow! it worked great!

I found the button to push to make the tubes just "pop" out. Its called a Metabo. took about 10 minutes!

So, now I've got the "new" tubes out of their old home and I packed up the truck with a bunch of tools from work and I'm going to see about tearing apart the D44 this weekend and retubing it for passenger drop.

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 PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:41 pm 

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are you narrowing while doing the retube?


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 PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:41 pm 

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how do you plan to align the tube to make sure there straight?

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 PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:06 pm 
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Trying to keep it the same width it was before.

When I go to push in the tubes, I was going to make some spacer pucks to go where the main bearing caps go, that fit, say a 1.5" dia. or whatever the biggest size I can fit through the tube, pipe or solid rod. Use the main bearing caps to keep it tight (and hopefully true to the housing).

Then on the ends, I was thinking of another spacer that could slide on the pipe/solid bar so as I press it together, it stays true....but maybe I'll just slap it together and beat on it with a hammer to try to get it straight! :eek:

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:53 pm 

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lgottler wrote:
Trying to keep it the same width it was before.

When I go to push in the tubes, I was going to make some spacer pucks to go where the main bearing caps go, that fit, say a 1.5" dia. or whatever the biggest size I can fit through the tube, pipe or solid rod. Use the main bearing caps to keep it tight (and hopefully true to the housing).

Then on the ends, I was thinking of another spacer that could slide on the pipe/solid bar so as I press it together, it stays true....but maybe I'll just slap it together and beat on it with a hammer to try to get it straight! :eek:

Lucas


it sounds like you pretty much have it figured out :thumb:

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 PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:46 pm 
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In theory, yes.

I didn't get a chance to get the tubes out of the good diff yet. I did the two C's tonight. So, so far, I've got 2 clean tubes ready for assembly and two C's ready for assembly. The diff is the only thing left.

The bronco cast radius arms are THICK! roughly 3/4" of tube wall to cut through to get the C's free. Second one went easier cuz I used the bandsaw that Kieth said didn't work (so I took it) to cut through the tube and then press out the tube from the C.

10 bolt tubes are 3/8 wall where the bronco cast in radius arm 44HP tubes are only 1/4 wall.

Lucas

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 PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:07 pm 

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the allignment is easy if you have a press fit. with a press fit you cannot move the tube ends anyway.. press fit is the best!

another way to get the tubes out is die grind the center of the plug weldony a 1/4 inch. use a hole saw around the outside of the weld. after you are started with the hole saw take the drill bit out and saw through. once the plug welds are out cut the tube off flush to the center. them sawsall 2 cuts in through the end and knock your pices out. an engine hone works well to clean up the hole but not to much cast is soft and you need a press fit.

i'm new to your site. sorry if you already disscussed this.


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